Dhofar
The Governorate of Dhofar is located in the south of the Sultanate.
The coastal strip stretches for 560km, and the region has an
area of around 1,500km2, of which only 130km2 are affected by
the monsoon rains. The coast of Dhofar is a haven for the fishing
industries and sardines are one of the most prolific fish in
the catch as well as lobsters, abalone and prawns. Agriculture
is a main industry in Dhofar and crops such as coconuts, bananas,
sweet potatoes (yams), lemons, papaya, wheat and corn are grown.
Traditional crafts include blacksmithing, goldsmithing, embroidery
and needlework.
Dhofar is an area rich in history. In 1992, an American satellite
discovered the remains of a city submerged beneath the sands
of the Omani section of the Rub' al Khali (the Empty Quarter).
Initial speculation indicated that this was the legendary city,
Iram Dhat al Emad, distinguished by its imposing columns and
high walls, which is mentioned in the Quran. The site has been
subject to much exploration and study by archaeologists who
have dated pottery and glass vessels excavated from the area
at around 100BC. It has also been ascertained that the city
sank under the sands due to what has been deemed a 'light earthquake'.
This could be the 'clamour' which is referred to in the Quran:
'..a great clamour was heard in the sky and Shaddad and all
who accompanied him were struck down' - and the city sank below
the ground.
The Dhofar region is subdivided into 9 wilayats. Its climate
is dramatically different to the rest of Oman due to the effects
of the monsoon rains (khareef) which arrive during the summer
months, creating humidity and moderate temperatures of around
300C. As a consequence, the area becomes lush and green, with
waterfalls and rivers feeding the surrounding pastures. The
mountain ridge, which receives the most rain, stretches for
400km from east to west. During the khareef, springs gush forth
and provide plentiful water supplies for much of the rest of
the year. The fresh greenery is ideal for cattle grazing and
livestock rearing is an important occupation in the area.
The
wilayat of Salalah, which is the administrative capital of Dhofar,
lies on the Arabian Sea, around 1040km from Muscat in the north.
The city has been subject to many historical and archaeological
studies over the years and evidence has been found in the form
of writing, inscriptions and signs indicating that a number
of different civilizations have succeeded each other here.
The Manjawi civilization dwelt in the district of Belid between
the 12th and 16th centuries. At this time, the area was renowned
for its thriving import and export activities, the main exports
being Arabian horses and frankincense.
It is thought that Ahmed bin Mohammed al Haboudhi rebuilt the
city and renamed it Al Mansourah (The Victorious) and this status
was reaffirmed in the writings of explorers Marco Polo and Ibn
Batuta. There are three archaeological sites in Al Mughsil with
traces of ancient walls, tombs and mosques.
Not all the sights in Salalah belong to the past, however. This
wilayat contains stunning beaches and steep, mountainous landscapes.
The rocky outcrops on the beach in Mughsil contain many blowholes
which burst dramatically during high tide. Salalah is developing
as a tourist resort and is attracting a number of international
hotel chains such as Holiday Inn and Hilton. Port
Salalah, completed in 1998, is destined to become one of
the world's most important container terminals. The Gold district
in the heart of Salalah is among the places that every tourist
is keen to visit.
The wilayat of Thumrayt is located at the juncture of all the
principal roads linking Dhofar to the rest of the Sultanate.
In the past, it has been a forwarding post on the overland caravan
routes to the ports on the Arabian Sea. It is believed that
the lost city of Ubar is in Shisr in Thumrayt. Ubar was the
mythical city mentioned in the 'Tales of the Arabian Nights'.
Much of Dhofar's frankincense was grown in this area and the
ancient people would warn outsiders of dangers such as 'flying
snakes' in order to keep them away and thus protect their livelihood.
In Mashid, there are many fresh water springs, which are noted
for their depth and which meander through beautiful scenery.
Traditional caravan routes are still maintained in Thumrayt
and the local inhabitants harvest the frankincense each April.
Crafts include spinning and weaving wool, tent-making and palm-frond
weaving.
Wilayat Taqah falls between Salalah and Marbat on the Dhofari
coastline. Taqah was once a prosperous port and has been a significant
trading centre of the ancient world. Some of the most famous
remains in this area are found at Samhuran, an ancient city
which is thought to date back to 3000BC. Old though these remains
may be, inscriptions are still visible in the walls and columns
of the citadel. Frankincense was the main export, which found
its way to Queen Hatshepsut of Egypt in 1500BC. A drawing of
a Pharaonic ship docked at Samhuran is still displayed in a
temple in the Valley of the Kings in Luxor. The Queen of Sheba
also dispatched a boatload of frankincense from this port as
a gift to Prophet Solomon (son of David). In 1952, the 'American
Foundation for the Study of Man' discovered the remains of stone
sculptures and carvings, pre-Islamic tombs and a citadel which
is thought to be part of the ancient city of Taqah. Modern day
Taqah has silver-white beaches, fresh water springs, caves and
grottos which make the district popular with visitors.
The wilayat of Marbat is on the central strip of the Dhofari
coast and its name is believed to have come from marabat al
khail (lit. place where horses are tied up). Marbat was famed
for breeding Arabian horses which were exported, along with
frankincense, to India and East Africa. It has a spectacular
landscape, from its coastline to the impressive peaks of Jebel
Samhan, the highest of which stands at 4754ft.
The Citadel of Marbat was built in the traditional Omani style
of defensive architecture, which is atypical of many of the
structures built in the area. Agriculture is a seasonal activity
here, mainly confined to the Tawi A'teer region. Beans, mangoes,
cucumbers and corn are the main crops. Marbat is rich in natural
springs, caves and grottos.
One of the most popular crafts is making majmars, the Dhofari-style
incense burners, which are decorated in yellow, green, blue
and red geometric designs.
Sadah, 135 km from Salalah, was a trading port for frankincense
export. Sadah has an impressive fort and the sub-district of
Hasek has the remains of an ancient city as well as a mausoleum
to the Prophet Saleh bin Hud on the slopes of Jebel Nous. There
are long stretches of clean white beaches, dramatic cliffs and
scenery. The mountains contain caves and grottos and the spring
called Ain Laja is the source water for the city's drinking
supply. Honey production is popular in this wilayat, as well
as livestock breeding and herding. Diving for oysters is still
well practised.
Wilayat Rakhyut is in the south east corner of Dhofar, neighbouring
Salalah. In ancient times, Rakhyut was a seaport station on
the sea caravan routes to India and East Africa, exporting frankincense
and other local products. The area is mountainous and has a
convoluted coastline distinguished by inlets and bays. Pearl
diving is still carried out by the locals who seek the precious
gem from the oysters.
Dhalkut is located on the far west of Dhofar and has enjoyed
its own merchant sea trade with the ports of the Gulf and Yemen,
exporting leather, honey, figs and frankincense. This wilayat
has many springs which burst forth from the wadis of the Jebel
al Qamar (Mountains of the Moon). The caves and grottos in the
area have provided shepherds and flocks with safe refuge from
adverse weather conditions for centuries. Certain caves, such
as Mashloul and Asbir contain ancient wall inscriptions.
The wilayat of Muqshin is adjacent to the kingdom of Saudi Arabia
in the west. It is famed for its date plantations and abundant
ground water supplies and in bygone days, was an important caravan
centre of the Rub al' Khali as well as a base camp for the desert's
explorers. Archaeological exploration has revealed tools and
inscriptions dating back to the Stone Age. Its inhabitants mainly
breed camels or cultivate date plantations.
The wilayat of Shalim and the Hallaniyat Islands lies in the
east of Dhofar, some 310km from Salalah. Past exports from this
area included dried fish, charcoal and frankincense which were
traded with Africa and India. There are a number of historical
sites in this district, many of them pre-Islamic. The Hallaniyat
Islands are a safe haven for migratory birds and the marine
life from the surrounding waters. Many turtles breed on the
Hallaniyat Islands and there are large dolphin populations.
In Rahab, on the mainland, there is an experimental farm which
is cultivating certain grasses and edible fruits and vegetables.
If the project is successful, barren stretches of land in Oman
may be exploited agriculturally.
